2004 Joseph Drouhin Chambertin

Maison Joseph Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s most venerable estates. It was founded in 1880 by Joseph Drouhin, who bought a 100-year old negociant business and began acquiring parcels in such legendary appellations as Clos des Mouches and Clos de Vougeot. By the mid-20th century the 148-acre estate was being run by Robert Drouhin, who continued to acquire vineyards and improve the quality of the wine. (Robert also purchased 100 acres in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, where his daughter makes Oregon Pinot Noirs under the Domaine Drouhin label.) The maison makes Grand Cru, Premier Cru and villages wines in Chablis, Cote de Nuits, Cote de Beaune, Cote Chalonnaise, Maconnais and Beaujolais. Noted Burgundy expert Clive Coates has called the maison “one of the most perfectionist” of the Burgundy producers, and Robert M. Parker Jr. notes that Drouhin’s wines “are among the very best of the modern style of red and white Burgundies.”

Chambertin is a 32.5 acre Grand Cru vineyard in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation. More than 25 proprietors own parcels, and some parcels are as small as about 50 square yards. The famous vineyard gets its name from a 7th century peasant, Monsieur Bertin. The name is assumed to come from the phrase “champ Bertin,” or Bertin’s field. Chambertin has an altitude that varies from 275 to 300 meters and is tucked under the Montagne de la Combe-Grisard, sheltering the site from strong winds. The soil is limestone, though there is also clay and gravel. Principal proprietors by acreage owned are Armand Rousseau, 5.38 acres; Jean and Jean-Louis Trapet, 4.75 acres; and Rossignol-Trapet, 4 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.