2012 Zidarich Carso Vitovska, 12-bottle Lot

Zidarich is near Trieste in a slim strip of land between the mountains and the Adriatic Sea. It is owned and operated by Benjamin Zidarich, who Gambero Rosso describes as “a true wine artisan, and one of the (area’s) best producers.” Zidarich has 20 acres of vineyards and in recent years completed a massive cellar project, creating a state-of-the art cellar that extends 60 feet down into limestone rock, where temperature and humidity remain constant year-round. Wines are mostly vinified in stone vats made from the stone of local quarries. The estate makes primarily white wines from Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc and Vitovska, a local grape. Zidarich also makes some red wines. Gambero Rosso regularly awards the wines two or three bicchieri.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia is the most northeasterly region of Italy, bordered by Austria on the north, Slovenia to the east, and the Italian Veneto to the west. Given its history as a political and cultural crossroads, it is no wonder that the wines and cuisine of Friuli-Venezia Giulia reflect Italian, Austrian, French and eastern European traditions. The region is best known for its white wines, and specializes in the native Tocai Friulano, a white grape that produces plush dry wines with fruit flavors balanced by minerals and acidity. Pinot Grigio, Sauvignnon Blanc, and Chardonnay area also grown, along with the native grapes Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia and Istriana. Artisanal producers in the region also make white blends, called “super whites,” which are generally distinctive blends of native grapes and Chardonnay. However nearly 40% of Friuli-Venezia Giulia wines are red. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are grown, along with the native grapes Refosco, Pignolo and Schioppettino, which is also called Ribolla Nera. The region has 46,000 vineyard acres, of which 60% is classified as DOC. There are nine DOCs.