2012 San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere

San Filippo is in Montalcino. It was founded in 1972 and is today owned by Roberto Giannelli, who has renovated the 53-acre estate extensively, paying close attention to the 27 acres of vineyards. The estate takes its name from a small, 17th century chapel built by a local landowner who wanted to show his gratitude for good harvests by holding regular religious services. Today the small chapel is part of the San Filippo estate. San Filippo produces Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino and Sant’Antimo Rosso, which is a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot. About 2,500 cases of Brunello are made annually. San Filippo Brunellos have won scores in the mid- to high-90s. Wine Advocate has written that “San Filippo is home to some of the best boutique Brunello today.”

Brunello di Montalcino is regarded as one of Italy’s best appellations. Located in south central Tuscany below Chianti, the wines of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG are made of a Sangiovese clone called “brunello,” which means “little dark one,” a reference to the brown tones in the skin of the grape. Unlike some Tuscan appellations that allow other grapes to be blended with Sangiovese, Brunello di Montalcino is entirely Sangiovese. Montalcino itself is a picturesque, hill-top town not especially well known for wine production until the mid-19th century, when a local vineyard owner isolated the brunello clone and planted it. Other growers followed suit. Nevertheless it wasn’t until 1970s that wine enthusiasts started paying attention to Brunello di Montalcino, which by then was becoming an outstanding wine. Today there are 120 estates in the DOCG, up from about 25 estates in 1975. Brunellos in general are bigger, darker, more tannic and more powerful wines than Chiantis or most other Sangioveses. By law they must be aged for four years, and two of those years must be in wooden barrels.