1998 Comte de Vogue Bonnes Mares

Like many of France’s historic wine producers, Domaine Comte de Georges de Vogue, as it is formally known, has been in the same family for more than 500 years. The domaine, based in Chambolle-Musigny, Burgundy, produces Grand Cru Pinot Noir and the winemaker since 1985 has been Francois Millet, who is credited with crafting exceptional wines. Comte de Vogue’s premier wine is Musigny Vieilles Vignes, though the domaine also make Chardonnay and other Pinot Noirs. The average age of the vines is 40 to 50 years. About 1,000 cases of Musigny Vieilles Vignes are produced each year.

Bonnes Mares is a Grand Cru vineyard that is located in two appellations Chambolle-Musigny and the neighboring Morey St.-Denis. Of the total of 37.6 acres, 33.75 are in Chambolle, and just under 4 acres are in Morey St. Denis. The history of the vineyard is complicated and today there are some 35 landholders. The vineyard lies between 265 and 300 meters. The soil is heavier toward Morey St.-Denis, which is the northern end of the vineyard, and lighter as the vineyard enters the Chambolle-Musigny commune. Principal landholders are De Vogue, 6.7 acres; Drouhin-Laroze, 3.7 acres; and Georges Roumier, 3.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.