2014 Cruse Wine Company Ricci Vineyard St. Laurent

Cruse Wine Company was founded by Michael Cruse, a Petaluma garagiste on a mission to improve California sparkling wines. A one-time university microbiology student whose earliest wine jobs were at Sutter Home and Merryvale Vineyards, Cruse is a self-taught maker of sparkling wines that rival Champagne. He’s also a proponent of a complicated “natural” style of winemaking known as pétillant natural, a French method in which the sparkling wine is bottled while still fermenting. In 2016 The San Francisco Chronicle named him Winemaker of the Year. Cruse makes still and sparkling wines. He also makes single vineyard, single vintage California sparkling wine under his Ultramarine label.

Carneros AVA, also known as Los Carneros, is at the southern end of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys at the top of the San Francisco Bay. The 8,000 vineyard acres are mostly planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, both of which thrive in the district’s cool, marine climate. Carneros became an AVA in 1983 and it has attracted foreign wine companies along with local producers. It has been especially appealing to European producers of sparkling wines including the giant Spanish cava producers Codorniu and Frexinet, and the French Champagne house Taittinger. Codorniu in Carneros is called Artesa, and Frexinet’s Carneros brand is Gloria Ferrer. Taittinger calls its Carneros winery Domaine Carneros. The European producers also make still wines in Carneros. ?