2009 Ca' Del Baio (Giulio Grasso) Barbaresco Asili

Ca’ Del Baio in Treiso is a 62-acre estate owned by the Grasso family. The Grassos, now led by patriarch Giulio Grasso, have owned vineyards near Barbaresco since the 19th century. But like many Italian grape growers, the family did not bottle their own wine until the mid-20th century. Today Giulio runs the estate with his wife and three daughters. The estate grows Nebbiolo, with small amounts of Barbera, Dolcetto, Chardonnay, Moscato and Riesling and makes red and white wines. Ca’ Del Baio is especially admired for its Barbaresco. Gambero Rosso has often awarded the estate’s Barbarescos the highest rating of 3 glasses. “In terms of quality and consistency, few estates can boast an array of Barbarescos to rival that of Ca’ Del Baio,” according to Gambero Rosso, whose reviewer added “their crus….wed a modern form with classic substance.” Robert M. Parker Jr. calls “The Ca’ Del Baio line-up...extremely impressive and delightful. These are some of the best wines from Barbaresco.” About 100,000 bottles are produced annually.

Barbaresco is one of the two most acclaimed DOCGs in Piedmont, the other being Barolo. Located just a few miles north of Barolo, Barbaresco is a small town of fewer than 700 people and 1,680 vineyard acres, making it less than half the size of the Barolo DOCG. The other communes in this DOCG of rolling hills are Neive and Treiso. As in Barolo, the DOCG requires that Barbaresco DOCG wines be 100% Nebbiolo, a grape thought of as the Pinot Noir of Italy. Records show that Nebbiolo was grown in the Piedmont as early as the 14th century, and despite being somewhat finicky – it is late to ripen and easily damaged by adverse weather --- Nebbiolo makes highly aromatic and powerful red wines. Until the mid-19th century Nebbiolos of Piedmont were vinified as sweet wines, though that ended in the late 19th century when a French oenologist was invited to Piedmont to show producers how to make dry reds. By the late 20th century respected producers were making outstanding Nebbiolos, as well as Nebbiolo blends that do not carry the DOCG label. Barbaresco was made a DOC in 1966 and upgraded to a DCOG in 1980. DOCG Barbaresco must be aged a minimum of two years, with a minimum of one year in wood. Barbarescos are regarded as more subtle and refined than Barolos, and more approachable when young.

This red grape is most often associated with Piedmont, where it becomes DOCG Barolo and Barbaresco, among others. Its name comes from Italian for “fog,” which descends over the region at harvest. The fruit also gains a foggy white veil when mature.