1999 Colin-Deleger Volnay Les Brouillards

Domaine Michel Colin-Deleger is a tiny, highly esteemed estate in Burgundy’s Cote de Beaune. It was established in 1950 when Michel Colin, a nephew of legendary Georges Deleger, started producing his own wines on small parcels he inherited. The domaine had been larger, but in 2003 Michel split parts of it off for his sons Philippe and Bruno, who now produce wines independently. Michel still has a parcel of Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet, as well as Premier Crus in Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. Clive Coates notes that Michel Colin-Deleger “is an excellent winemaker.”

Volnay is a small appellation with just 904 vineyard acres and a town of fewer than 500 residents. Nevertheless, to Burgundy enthusiasts, it's a jewel. Clive Coates calls Volnay “one of the most delightful wines and one of the most rewarding communes in the Côte d’Or.” Robert M. Parker Jr. described Volnay as “the queen of the Côte de Beaune.” Volnay has always been appealing. In the 13th and 14th centuries the powerful Dukes of Burgundy acquired land there and built chateaux. The medieval town sits on the hillside above the vineyards and the appellation is restricted to red wines made of Pinot Noir. Though there are no Grands Crus, there are 35 Premiers Crus. Some reviewers say the lighter soil of Volnay, compared with Pommard to the north, makes Volnay wines more delicate and elegant than wines from neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Volnay has a “high-quality level of winemaking…The top Volnays possess an immense, seductive fruitiness and lushness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.