2004 Domaine Bertagna Clos de Vougeot

Domaine Bertagna is a 52-acre estate in the Cotes de Nuits. It was established in the 1950s by Claude Bertagna but since 1982 it has been owned by the Gunther Reh family, a German family of wine entrepreneurs and estate owners. Today the estate produces wine from 18 appellations, including five Grand Crus. The domain itself is in Vougeot. It has Grand Cru parcels in Clos Saint-Denis, Clos de Vougeot, Corton-Charlemagne, Corton Les Grandes Lolieres, and Chambertin. There are also numerous Premier Crus, including the monopole Clos de la Perriere in Vougeot.

Clos de Vougeot is a walled vineyard that dominates the tiny commune of Vougeot in Burgundy’s Nuits-St.-Georges. The 124-acre Grand Cru vineyard includes a historic chateau that in 1945 was purchased by the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, an organization devoted to promoting the traditions of Burgundy and its wines. The impressive chateau is the organization’s headquarters. Clos de Vougeot was established as a vineyard by Cistercian monks in the 12th century, then sold off to private owners after the French Revolution. The vineyard is unusual for a Grand Cru in that it includes land that runs down to the main road. The soil is light limestone with sand. Principal landowners are Chateau de la Tour, with 13 acres; Meo-Camuzet, 7.5 acres; Rebourseau, 5.5 acres; Louis Jadot, 5.3 acres; and Leroy, 5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.