2012 Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques

Domaine Denis Mortet owns or leases 34 acres in Gevrey-Chambertin, in Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits. Until 1991 the estate was known as Charles Mortet et Fils. But when Denis and his brother Thierry divided the domaine in 1991, Denis used his own name on his wines and acquired additional vineyards. Today the estate includes Grand Cru parcels in Clos de Vougeot and Chambertin. There are also Premier Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny. Denis Mortet took his own life in 2006 and the estate is now owned and operated by his wife Laurence and son Arnaud. Under Denis the estate had a reputation for excellence, and writer Clive Coates has noted that Arnaud is following in his father footsteps. In 2008 Coates wrote that “fine 2005s were found” at the estate.

Côte de Nuits is the northern part of the Côte d’Or and it includes the most famous vineyards and wine communes in the world. There are more Grand Cru appellations in the Côte de Nuits than anywhere else in Burgundy. Of the fourteen communes, or villages in the Côte de Nuits, six produce Grand Cru wines. They are Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St.-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Flagey-Échezeaux and Vosne-Romanee. Some of the vineyards within the Côte de Nuits are tiny, which adds to their prestige. The fabled Grand Cru vineyard La Romanee is barely two square acres. Altogether there are twenty-four Grand Cru vineyards. The region takes its name from the village of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Côtes de Nuits produces mostly reds from Pinot Noir, and the wines have been in demand for centuries. During the 18th century King Louis XIV’s physician recommended that for his health the king only drink wines from Nuits-Saint-Georges. Like most of Burgundy, the soils of the Côte de Nuit can vary greatly from one vineyard to another, though most are a base soil of limestone mixed with clay, gravel and sand.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.