2012 Yvon Metras Moulin-à-Vent

Yvon Métras was put in charge of his family’s small Fleurie domaine in the 1980s and during his first years at the helm he followed the family tradition of selling grapes to the local cooperative. But he soon adopted what was then the radical idea of “natural” winemaking, and by 1988 he had dropped out of the cooperative and was producing and selling his own wine. Natural winemaking essentially means a minimalist approach, and winemakers who practice natural winemaking keep organic vineyards, allow for natural fermentation and use minimal sulfur, among other non-interventionist practices. Métras has only 12 acres of vineyards and he has said he has little interest in marketing, meaning that his wines are made in small quantities and are not well known outside of France. Nevertheless, he has a cult following among Gamay aficionados. Reviewers who can get their hands on a bottle generally compliment the wines. Vinous calls Métras “a somewhat mythical and enigmatic vigneron,” and has rated his wines in the low 90s Wine Advocate’s reviewer noted that although the wines are hard to find, the “quality is such that I feel this report should include his wines.” Wine Advocate has also rated the wines in the low to mid 90s.

Moulin-à-Vent is a Beaujolais Cru appellation that takes its charming name from the only windmill, or moulin-à-vent, still in existence in Beaujolais. The picturesque windmill is several hundred years old and features prominently on the labels of some producers in the appellation. Moulin-à-Vent is located in the north central region of Beaujolais, and it includes 1,605 acres of vineyards. Many Beaujolais admirers consider it the “King” of the Beaujolais Crus, and Moulin-à-Vent wines are known for their richness, fullness and their ability to age. Like nearly all of Beaujolais, the grape grown here is Gamay. About 400,000 cases are produced annually.

The Gamay grape produces a light, versatile and food-friendly wine. It is best known for making Beaujolais Nouveau, but it is also grown in Loire and Tours. Thankfully the 14th C. Duke of Burgundy’s degree to ban the grape did not spread through all of France.