1998 Paul Pernot Volnay Carelles Rouge

Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils is a 50-acre estate based in Puligny Montrachet. It was started in 1959 by Paul Pernot, who founded his enterprise with 25 acres that had been owned by the Pernot family for nearly 200 years. Today Paul Pernot has turned over much of the work to his three sons. The domain has two Puligny Montrachet Grand Crus, Batard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, as well as several Premier Crus. The domaine also produces a limited amount of red wine from very old vines. Clive Coates has noted that at Domaine Paul Pernot et Fils “quality is very high…I have consistent enthusiastic notes of Pernot wines.”

Volnay is a small appellation with just 904 vineyard acres and a town of fewer than 500 residents. Nevertheless, to Burgundy enthusiasts, it's a jewel. Clive Coates calls Volnay “one of the most delightful wines and one of the most rewarding communes in the Côte d’Or.” Robert M. Parker Jr. described Volnay as “the queen of the Côte de Beaune.” Volnay has always been appealing. In the 13th and 14th centuries the powerful Dukes of Burgundy acquired land there and built chateaux. The medieval town sits on the hillside above the vineyards and the appellation is restricted to red wines made of Pinot Noir. Though there are no Grands Crus, there are 35 Premiers Crus. Some reviewers say the lighter soil of Volnay, compared with Pommard to the north, makes Volnay wines more delicate and elegant than wines from neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Volnay has a “high-quality level of winemaking…The top Volnays possess an immense, seductive fruitiness and lushness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.