2017 Fratelli Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione

Fratelli Oddero is in La Morra, and Gambero Rosso, Italy’s leading wine journal, calls it “one of the most important” estates in Langhe. Today the estate calls itself simply Oddero, or Podere e Cantine Oddero, reflecting the fact that it is now run by Giacomo Oddero’s two adult daughters. Giacomo and his brother Luigi ran the estate together for nearly 50 years, but in 2006 Luigi started his own winery. There are nearly 90 acres of vineyards planted to Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera and small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling and Chardonnay. Oddero is a certified organic estate and it produces 150,000 bottles annually. Gambero Rosso notes that the estate includes outstanding plots that are essentially “grands crus interpreted in a dry, sophisticated idiom achieved by skillful use of large and small oak barrels. This is the signature style of Mariacristina and Mariavittoria Oddero, who run the business today.”

Barolo is one of Italy’s greatest wine appellations. In fact many cognoscenti of Italian wines consider Barolo to be the apex of Italian winemaking. Barolo is sometimes referred to as “the king of wines, and the wine of kings” partly because until the mid-19th century Piedmont was owned by the noble House of Savoy, the historic rulers of northwestern Italy. And the Savoys had a taste for Nebbiolo. Nestled into the rolling hills of Langhe, the Barolo DOCG includes 11 communes, one of which is the town of Barolo. There are 4,200 vineyard acres in the appellation and since the late 19th century growers have tried to identify their best vineyards. By marketing some vineyards as better quality than others, Barolo producers have followed the Burgundian custom of making single vineyard, or “cru” vineyard bottlings. As in neighboring Barbaresco, the Barolo DOCG requires that wines be 100% Nebbiolo, a grape thought of as the Pinot Noir of Italy. Records show that Nebbiolo was grown in the Piedmont as early as the 14th century, and despite being somewhat finicky – it is late to ripen and easily damaged by adverse weather --- Nebbiolo makes highly aromatic and powerful red wines. Until the mid-19th century Nebbiolos of Piedmont were vinified as sweet wines, though that ended in the late 19th century when a French oenologist was invited to Piedmont to show producers how to make dry reds. Barolo was made a DOC in 1966 and upgraded to DOCG status in 1980. Barolos must be aged at least three years, at least two of those years in wood. Barolos are tannic and robust and generally need at least five years to soften into complex, earthy wines.

This red grape is most often associated with Piedmont, where it becomes DOCG Barolo and Barbaresco, among others. Its name comes from Italian for “fog,” which descends over the region at harvest. The fruit also gains a foggy white veil when mature.