1997 Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares

Domaine Robert Groffier is a 17-acre estate in Morey St.-Denis, in the Cotes de Nuits, Burgundy. Until 1972 the estate’s wines were all sold to negociants, but in the nearly 40 years since then the domaine has earned a reputation for, in the words of Robert M. Parker Jr., being “in the top echelon of Burgundy producers.” The estate is owned and operated by Robert Groffier and his son Serge and it includes the Grands Crus Bonnes Mares and Chambertin Clos de Beze. Parker has called the estate’s wines “explosive, powerful…finely etched, yet lush…”

Bonnes Mares is a Grand Cru vineyard that is located in two appellations Chambolle-Musigny and the neighboring Morey St.-Denis. Of the total of 37.6 acres, 33.75 are in Chambolle, and just under 4 acres are in Morey St. Denis. The history of the vineyard is complicated and today there are some 35 landholders. The vineyard lies between 265 and 300 meters. The soil is heavier toward Morey St.-Denis, which is the northern end of the vineyard, and lighter as the vineyard enters the Chambolle-Musigny commune. Principal landholders are De Vogue, 6.7 acres; Drouhin-Laroze, 3.7 acres; and Georges Roumier, 3.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.