1996 Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin

Bernard Dugat-Py is a 30-acre domaine in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation of Burgundy. The Dugats have been winemakers in the region since the 17th century, and Bernard and his son Loic are the 12th and 13th generations to run the domain. Since 2004 the domain has been completely biodynamic. The domain produces Grand Crus, which are Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, and Mazoyeres-Chambertin. There are also Premier Crus and Village wines. Dugat-Py’s wines are aged in a magnificent vaulted cellar that was built as part of an abbey in the 9th century. Recently the domaine has also made white wines, including a Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne. Clive Coates, the long-time wine critic and Burgundy authority, has noted that Bernard Dugat-Py “is a high-class establishment presided over by a charming couple.” The domain’s wines, he adds, “are very stylish and well-balanced.”

Charmes-Chambertin is a 78-acre Grand Cru vineyard in Gevrey-Chambertin that traditionally includes the acreage of nearby Mazoyeres-Chambertin. For nearly 200 years the growers of Mazoyeres have been legally allowed to sell their wines under the more famous name of Charmes-Chambertin, and virtually all of them do. Charmes-Chambertin is the largest of the Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Crus, and it generally has an excellent reputation. The slope of the vineyard is gentle and the surface soil poor. But producers including Joseph Roty, Christian Serafin, Domaine Dujac, Faiveley and Joseph Drouhin are acclaimed for their Charmes Chambertin. Principal landholders are Camus, with 14.75 acres; Perrot-Minot, 4 acres; and Armand Rousseau, 3.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.