2023 Aubert Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard Chardonnay

Aubert Wines produces what many consider California’s first “cult Chardonnay.” Mark Aubert is the owner and operator of the Calistoga-based winery, and his single-vineyard Chardonnays are regularly compared to Grand Cru Burgundies. Aubert, who grew up in Napa Valley and worked as the winemaker for Peter Michael and Colgin, bought seven acres of Chardonnay vineyards in the Sonoma Coast AVA in 2000. Since then he has also planted Pinot Noir in western Sonoma County. Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that “it is hard to find better Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs than those created by Mark Aubert under his Aubert label.” Production is extremely limited and the Aubert wines are generally available only through the winery’s mailing list.

Carneros AVA, also known as Los Carneros, is at the southern end of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys at the top of the San Francisco Bay. The 8,000 vineyard acres are mostly planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, both of which thrive in the district’s cool, marine climate. Carneros became an AVA in 1983 and it has attracted foreign wine companies along with local producers. It has been especially appealing to European producers of sparkling wines including the giant Spanish cava producers Codorniu and Frexinet, and the French Champagne house Taittinger. Codorniu in Carneros is called Artesa, and Frexinet’s Carneros brand is Gloria Ferrer. Taittinger calls its Carneros winery Domaine Carneros. The European producers also make still wines in Carneros.

This white variety originated in Burgundy, but is now grown around the world. Its flexibility to thrive in many regions translates to wide flavor profile in the market. Chardonnay is commonly used in making Champagne and sparkling wines.