2005 Denis Mortet Clos de Vougeot

Domaine Denis Mortet owns or leases 34 acres in Gevrey-Chambertin, in Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits. Until 1991 the estate was known as Charles Mortet et Fils. But when Denis and his brother Thierry divided the domaine in 1991, Denis used his own name on his wines and acquired additional vineyards. Today the estate includes Grand Cru parcels in Clos de Vougeot and Chambertin. There are also Premier Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny. Denis Mortet took his own life in 2006 and the estate is now owned and operated by his wife Laurence and son Arnaud. Under Denis the estate had a reputation for excellence, and writer Clive Coates has noted that Arnaud is following in his father footsteps. In 2008 Coates wrote that “fine 2005s were found” at the estate.

Clos de Vougeot is a walled vineyard that dominates the tiny commune of Vougeot in Burgundy’s Nuits-St.-Georges. The 124-acre Grand Cru vineyard includes a historic chateau that in 1945 was purchased by the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, an organization devoted to promoting the traditions of Burgundy and its wines. The impressive chateau is the organization’s headquarters. Clos de Vougeot was established as a vineyard by Cistercian monks in the 12th century, then sold off to private owners after the French Revolution. The vineyard is unusual for a Grand Cru in that it includes land that runs down to the main road. The soil is light limestone with sand. Principal landowners are Chateau de la Tour, with 13 acres; Meo-Camuzet, 7.5 acres; Rebourseau, 5.5 acres; Louis Jadot, 5.3 acres; and Leroy, 5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.