2022 David Duband Clos de la Roche

David Duband comes from a vigneron family long based in Chevannes, in the Hautes Cotes de Nuits. He took over the family domaine in 1995 when his father retired and he has also expanded the domaine, which now includes Grand Cru parcels in Echezeaux, Charmes-Chambertin and Clos Vougeot. Altogether Duband owns or leases on long term 25 acres. Duband also farms and makes wine for Francois Feuillet who owns 25 acres nearby, part of it leased by Duband. Wines with Feuillet labels are therefore also made by Duband. Clive Coates compliments Duband for his “up-to-date, classic, modern winemaking…” and notes that there is “high quality” at the estate. Duband also makes Premier Crus inn Chambolle-Musigny, Gevrey-Chambertin and Morey St. Denis, along with village wines.

Clos de la Roche is a 41-acre Grand Cru vineyard in the Morey St.-Denis appellation in the Cotes de Nuits, in northern Burgundy. The tiny village of Morey St.-Denis is just south of Gevrey-Chambertin and Clos de Roche is considered the appellation’s most superior Grand Cru. The vineyard’s elevation ranges from 270 to 300 meters, and its soil is extremely rocky with excellent drainage. The soil is largely limestone, and in some places it is barely a foot deep. Writer Clive Coates calls Clos de Roche “the classiest of the Morey Grand Crus.” The largest landholders are Ponsot with 8.35 acres; Dujac, 4.88 acres; and Armand Rousseau, 3.7 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.