2020 Jules Desjourneys Beaujolais Villages Blanc

Jules Desjourneys is a new domain from a highly experienced fine wine distributor. For decades Fabien Duperray was an agent for many of the Côte d’Or’s premier producers. Then, in 2007, he was offered the chance to purchase a parcel of ancient vines in Moulin-a-Vent and Fleurie. He jumped at the opportunity and began devoting himself to running his new estate, which he named Domaine Jules Desjourneys. He farms entirely according to biodynamic principles and his yields are very low. The wines are whole-cluster fermented and during the maceration period Duperray’s approach is very hands-off. Reviewers have noted that the wines are built to age, which is unusual for Beaujolais. Duperray’s first commercial vintage was the 2007 bottling, and wine writers have been exceptionally complimentary. Wine Advocate described the wines like this: “Think serious, concentrated and teeth coating with extremely firm but ripe tannins and you have the essence of these remarkable wines.”

Beaujolais is the Côte d’Or’s big, boisterous neighbor to the south. At 34 miles in length and nine miles across, it is twice the size of Rhode Island. Though it is technically a part of Burgundy, Beaujolais’ wines are quite different from the northern Burgundies. A big reason is that 99% of the grapes grown in Beaujolais are Gamay, a relative of Pinot Noir but with a lighter skin, less tannin, and lower acidity. Gamay is easier to grow and ripens before Pinot Noir, and though it is often dismissed by wine connoisseurs, it can make outstanding wines. Beaujolais is also distinctive in that most winemakers there use a process called carbonic maceration, which means that grapes are not crushed but dumped into large vats where the weight of the grapes eventually crushes those at the bottom. Unbroken grapes begin fermenting inside their skins, helping give the wines of this region their intensely perfumed, fruity character. There are numerous appellations within Beaujolais, but the most prestigious are the ten Cru Beaujolais. Each of those ten Crus has its own village or vineyard appellation. Beaujolais’ reputation suffered in the late 20th century when French wine marketers created a demand for Beaujolais Nouveau, two-month old wine made from the recent harvest and released the third weekend in November. The wines are thin and meant to be drunk immediately, and though made from Gamay, they have little else in common with the more serious Beaujolais wines.

This white variety originated in Burgundy, but is now grown around the world. Its flexibility to thrive in many regions translates to wide flavor profile in the market. Chardonnay is commonly used in making Champagne and sparkling wines.