1998 Domaine Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares

Georges Roumier et Fils is a 40-acre estate in Chambolle Musigny in Burgundy’s Cote de Nuits. Founded in 1924 by Georges Roumier, it is now run by the family’s second and third generation winemakers, father Jean-Marie and son Christophe. The wines produced include the Grand Crus Le Musigny, Bonnes-Mares and Corton-Charlemagne, as well as Premier Crus in Chambolle-Musigny, which are Les Amoureuses, Les Combettes, and Les Cras. The estate also has a monopole Premier Cru in Morey-Saint-Denis, which is Clos de la Bussiere. Robert M. Parker Jr. has noted that the domaine “is undoubtedly one of the finest sources of classic, long-lived red burgundies….All aspects of the estate’s winemaking are completely traditional.”

Bonnes Mares is a Grand Cru vineyard that is located in two appellations Chambolle-Musigny and the neighboring Morey St.-Denis. Of the total of 37.6 acres, 33.75 are in Chambolle, and just under 4 acres are in Morey St. Denis. The history of the vineyard is complicated and today there are some 35 landholders. The vineyard lies between 265 and 300 meters. The soil is heavier toward Morey St.-Denis, which is the northern end of the vineyard, and lighter as the vineyard enters the Chambolle-Musigny commune. Principal landholders are De Vogue, 6.7 acres; Drouhin-Laroze, 3.7 acres; and Georges Roumier, 3.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.