N.V. Jacques Selosse Brut Grand Cru Initial Blanc de Blancs

Domaine Jacques Selosse is a 37-acre estate near the village of Avize in Champagne. The estate, which has achieved cult status in its relatively short history, was started in the 1950s by Jacques Selosse. Since 1980 the estate has been run by Jacques’ son Anselme, and its parcels are in Avize, Cramant, Oger and Les Mesnil-sur-Oger. Anselme was an early adopter of biodynamic farming, essentially a natural, chemical-free farming approach, and in the 1980s also pioneered the idea of “artisanal” Champagne from single vineyards. Robert M. Parker Jr. notes that “It’s quite possible that no Champagne grower since Dom Perignon has been more written about or more influential than Anselme Selosse. (He is)…fanatic in his pursuit of biodynamic methods, of Champagne-as-wine, and, above all of integrity and truth in terroir…”

Champagne is a small, beautiful wine growing region northeast of Paris whose famous name is misused a million times a day. As wine enthusiasts and all French people are well aware, only sparkling wines produced in Champagne from grapes grown in Champagne can be called Champagne. Sparkling wines produced anywhere else, including in other parts of France, must be called something besides Champagne. Champagne producers are justifiably protective of their wines and the prestige associated with true Champagne. Though the region was growing grapes and making wines in ancient times, it began specializing in sparkling wine in the 17th century, when a Benedictine monk named Dom Pierre Pérignon formulated a set guidelines to improve the quality of the local sparkling wines. Despite legends to the contrary, Dom Pérignon did not “invent” sparkling wine, but his rules about aggressive pruning, small yields and multiple pressings of the grapes were widely adopted, and by the 18th and 19th centuries Champagne had become the wine of choice in fashionable courts and palaces throughout Europe. Today there are 75,000 acres of vineyards in Champagne growing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Champagne’s official appellation system classifies villages as Grand Cru or Premier Cru, though there are also many excellent Champagnes that simply carry the regional appellation. Along with well-known international Champagne houses there are numerous so-called “producer Champagnes,” meaning wines made by families who, usually for several or more generations, have worked their own vineyards and produced Champagne only from their own grapes.