2006 Jean-Michel Guillon Clos de Vougeot

Domaine Jean-Michel Guillon was started in 1980 when Jean-Michel, whose background was in aeronautics, decided to move to Gevrey-Chambertin and become a winemaker. He slowly acquired vineyards and winemaking skills and today owns or leases 32 acres. He works with his eldest son, Alexis, and he also has two younger sons, which is why his recent vintages carry the label Domaine J-M Guillon et Fils. The domaine has Grand Cru parcels in Clos de Vougeot and Mazis-Chambertin, and Premier Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin and Morey-Saint-Denis. There are also village wines. Guide Hachette, one of France’s leading wine reviews, has noted that Guillon pere et fils “produce wines which are regularly mentioned in the Guide Hachette, often in the top few.”

Clos de Vougeot is a walled vineyard that dominates the tiny commune of Vougeot in Burgundy’s Nuits-St.-Georges. The 124-acre Grand Cru vineyard includes a historic chateau that in 1945 was purchased by the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, an organization devoted to promoting the traditions of Burgundy and its wines. The impressive chateau is the organization’s headquarters. Clos de Vougeot was established as a vineyard by Cistercian monks in the 12th century, then sold off to private owners after the French Revolution. The vineyard is unusual for a Grand Cru in that it includes land that runs down to the main road. The soil is light limestone with sand. Principal landowners are Chateau de la Tour, with 13 acres; Meo-Camuzet, 7.5 acres; Rebourseau, 5.5 acres; Louis Jadot, 5.3 acres; and Leroy, 5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.