2012 Comte Armand Volnay

Comte Armand Le Domaine des Epeneaux is the full name of a 25-acre domaine in Pommard, in Burgundy’s Cote de Beaune. The domaine is highly unusual in that until 1994 it had only one wine, which is the prestigious Premier Cru Clos des Epeneaux. The clos is a 13-acre monopole. But in 1994 the domaine, which has been owned by the Armand family since the 18th century, expanded to include Premier Cru and village parcels in Pommard, Volnay, Meursault and Auxey-Duresses. The current head of the family is a Parisian lawyer who has given the winemaking duties to Benjamin Leroux. The estate is biodynamic and is still primarily known for its Clos des Epeneaux.

Volnay is a small appellation with just 904 vineyard acres and a town of fewer than 500 residents. Nevertheless, to Burgundy enthusiasts, it's a jewel. Clive Coates calls Volnay “one of the most delightful wines and one of the most rewarding communes in the Côte d’Or.” Robert M. Parker Jr. described Volnay as “the queen of the Côte de Beaune.” Volnay has always been appealing. In the 13th and 14th centuries the powerful Dukes of Burgundy acquired land there and built chateaux. The medieval town sits on the hillside above the vineyards and the appellation is restricted to red wines made of Pinot Noir. Though there are no Grands Crus, there are 35 Premiers Crus. Some reviewers say the lighter soil of Volnay, compared with Pommard to the north, makes Volnay wines more delicate and elegant than wines from neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Volnay has a “high-quality level of winemaking…The top Volnays possess an immense, seductive fruitiness and lushness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.