1998 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Clos des Ducs

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville is a hillside estate in Volnay, in Burgundy’s Cote de Beaune. The 35-acre domain was one of the first in Burgundy to bottle and market its own wines. Today the estate is run by Guillaume d’Angerville and his brother-in-law Renaud de Villette. The domaine’s most prestigious parcels are the Volnay premier cru Clos des Ducs (which is a monopole), and the premier crus Champans, Les Fremiets, Taille Pieds and Les Caillerets. Also owned are premier cru and village plots in Meursault and Pommard. Burgundy writer Clive Coates has written that “Angerville wines are exemplary; pure, terroir specific, elegant and intense.”

Volnay is a small appellation with just 904 vineyard acres and a town of fewer than 500 residents. Nevertheless, to Burgundy enthusiasts, it's a jewel. Clive Coates calls Volnay “one of the most delightful wines and one of the most rewarding communes in the Côte d’Or.” Robert M. Parker Jr. described Volnay as “the queen of the Côte de Beaune.” Volnay has always been appealing. In the 13th and 14th centuries the powerful Dukes of Burgundy acquired land there and built chateaux. The medieval town sits on the hillside above the vineyards and the appellation is restricted to red wines made of Pinot Noir. Though there are no Grands Crus, there are 35 Premiers Crus. Some reviewers say the lighter soil of Volnay, compared with Pommard to the north, makes Volnay wines more delicate and elegant than wines from neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Volnay has a “high-quality level of winemaking…The top Volnays possess an immense, seductive fruitiness and lushness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.