2020 Bibi Graetz/Testamatta Testamatta

Bibi Graetz Azienda Agricola Testamatta is in the hills of Fiesole in Tuscany. It was founded and is run by Bibi Graetz, a winemaker and artist of Norwegian/Swiss/Israeli heritage. Graetz’s debut vintage was the 2000. Graetz owns 5 acres of vineyards but leases an additional 75 acres. He makes red and white wines, and has received considerable attention from the wine press in Norway as well as complimentary reviews from Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator. Graetz’s flagship wine is Testamatta, which means “hothead” in Italian. It is a 100% Sangiovese. He also makes a very limited production Colore di Testamatta, which usually is equal parts Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Graetz is an art graduate from the Academia dell’Arte in Florence and he designs all his own labels.

Tuscany, or Toscana in Italian, is Italy’s best-known wine region and its most diverse. Historically Sangiovese was the primary grape grown in Tuscany and Chianti was considered the purest expression of Sangiovese. Sangiovese and its many clones are still important, and they are the grapes used for the Tuscan appellations of Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Morellino di Scansano, Chianti, Chianti Classico and Carmignano. But in the last 50 years innovative producers, many of them in southwestern Tuscany in the area called Maremma, have also planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. The tradition defying producers have blended those varietals with Sangiovese to produce dazzling wines that do not conform to Italy’s appellation regulations. Such wines are called Super Tuscans and cannot be labeled with either of Italy’s highest level quality designations, which are in order of status Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantia, (DOCG), and Denominazione di Origine Controllata, (DOC). (This has not at all hindered the demand for Super Tuscans, some of which are consistently among the world’s most admired and well-reviewed wines.) Tuscany has six DOCG appellations and thirty-four DOCs. Though famous for its red wines, Tuscany also produces whites made primarily from Trebbiano and Vernaccia. There are also many Tuscan Indicazione Geographica Tipica (IGT) wines that are often an innovative blend of traditional and non-traditional grapes. This relatively new appellation status was started in 1992 as an attempt to give an official classification to Italy’s many newer blends that do fit the strict requirements of DOC and DOCG classifications. IGT wines may use the name of the region and varietal on their label or in their name.