1985 Maison Leroy Le Chambertin

Maison Leroy is often called the greatest estate in Burgundy. Its wines are legendary, as is its history. Founded in 1868 by Francois Leroy in Vosne-Romanee, the Leroy name was associated with outstanding wine by the late 19th century. In 1942 the family purchased half of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Today the estate is run by the remarkable Lalou Leroy, who ran the family’s negociant business for decades before taking over winemaking in 1988. She added vineyards to the estate and today has 56 acres of prime parcels planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Aligote. About 17 of her acres are in grand cru vineyards, including Corton-Charlemagne, Corton-Renardes, Richebourg, Romanee-St. Vivant, Clos de Vougeot, Musigny, Clos de la Roche, Latricieres-Chambertin and Chambertin. Robert M. Parker Jr. has called Leroy’s wines “the reference point for Burgundy…(the wines) are among the noblest and purest expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Burgundy.”

Chambertin is a 32.5 acre Grand Cru vineyard in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation. More than 25 proprietors own parcels, and some parcels are as small as about 50 square yards. The famous vineyard gets its name from a 7th century peasant, Monsieur Bertin. The name is assumed to come from the phrase “champ Bertin,” or Bertin’s field. Chambertin has an altitude that varies from 275 to 300 meters and is tucked under the Montagne de la Combe-Grisard, sheltering the site from strong winds. The soil is limestone, though there is also clay and gravel. Principal proprietors by acreage owned are Armand Rousseau, 5.38 acres; Jean and Jean-Louis Trapet, 4.75 acres; and Rossignol-Trapet, 4 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.