1990 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes

Domaine Dujac in Morey Saint Denis is relatively young by the standards of Burgundy estates. It was founded in 1967 when Louis Seysses, a food manufacturer who enjoyed good food and wine, bought an existing domaine so his son Jacques could try his hand at winemaking. Jacques had already apprenticed at other Burgundy estates, and Domaine Dujac’s first vintage was 1968. Dujac wines quickly earned acclaim and today they are, in the words of Burgundy expert Clive Coates, “intense, perfumed, silky-smooth and impeccably balanced.” The domaine remains a family operation which includes roles for Jacques’ wife, two sons and a daughter-in-law. The estate is comprised of 28 acres including prime parcels in the Grand Cru vineyards Clos de la Roche and Clos Saint-Denis. There are also parcels in Charmes-Chambertin, Bonnes-Mares, Echezeaux, Chambertin and Romanee-Saint-Vivant.

Côte de Nuits is the northern part of the Côte d’Or and it includes the most famous vineyards and wine communes in the world. There are more Grand Cru appellations in the Côte de Nuits than anywhere else in Burgundy. Of the fourteen communes, or villages in the Côte de Nuits, six produce Grand Cru wines. They are Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St.-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Flagey-Échezeaux and Vosne-Romanee. Some of the vineyards within the Côte de Nuits are tiny, which adds to their prestige. The fabled Grand Cru vineyard La Romanee is barely two square acres. Altogether there are twenty-four Grand Cru vineyards. The region takes its name from the village of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Côtes de Nuits produces mostly reds from Pinot Noir, and the wines have been in demand for centuries. During the 18th century King Louis XIV’s physician recommended that for his health the king only drink wines from Nuits-Saint-Georges. Like most of Burgundy, the soils of the Côte de Nuit can vary greatly from one vineyard to another, though most are a base soil of limestone mixed with clay, gravel and sand.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.