2020 Aubert Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Aubert Wines produces what many consider California’s first “cult Chardonnay.” Mark Aubert is the owner and operator of the Calistoga-based winery, and his single-vineyard Chardonnays are regularly compared to Grand Cru Burgundies. Aubert, who grew up in Napa Valley and worked as the winemaker for Peter Michael and Colgin, bought seven acres of Chardonnay vineyards in the Sonoma Coast AVA in 2000. Since then he has also planted Pinot Noir in western Sonoma County. Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that “it is hard to find better Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs than those created by Mark Aubert under his Aubert label.” Production is extremely limited and the Aubert wines are generally available only through the winery’s mailing list.

Russian River Valley AVA is named for the river that meanders from Mendocino County in the north until it finally runs into the Pacific Ocean north of San Francisco. The AVA is cool thanks to its proximity to the northern California coast and the river, and grape growers must learn to deal with regular fog. Nevertheless in recent decades the AVA has become one of the best in the state, meaning that its wines often earn excellent reviews and have considerable cachet. The AVA status was awarded in 1983 and today the appellation has 15,000 vineyard acres. Chardonnay is the most widely planted grape though Pinot Noir has also been very successful in recent decades. Russian River Valley Pinot Noir are known for being rich, lush and filled with concentrated fruit and berry flavors. Russian River Pinot Noirs are today considered some of the best domestic Pinot Noirs.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.