1991 Gentaz-Dervieux Cote-Rotie Cote Brune Cuvee Reserve

Gentaz-Dervieux no longer exists as a domaine. But to Côte- Rôtie collectors, the storied domaine lives on as a gold standard for traditionally made, subtle Côte-Rôtie wine. Marius Gentaz was a young man in 1952 when he started working 4.5 acres of vineyards with his father. By 1965 Marius was in charge of the vineyard and he continued to work it, mostly on his own, making just one wine until his retirement in 1993. Since his daughters were not interested in running a winery, he closed the estate. Marius died in 2011, and as the availability of his wines has diminished, their desirability has soared. Gentaz-Dervieux wines have been described in recent years in the New York Times as representative of “the ebbing of a classic style,” a time when Côte-Rôtie was perfumed and delicate, rather than the big, fruity powerhouses that are typically produced today. Though Marius Gentaz changed the label over the years, adding “Brune” to the label in later vintages, he only made one wine from Syrah vines that were at least 60 years old. These wines are today considered cellar treasures.

The Northern Rhône Valley wine region hugs the Rhône River from Vienne in the north to Valence at its southern tip. The French call the region Côtes du Rhône Septentrionales, and it is divided into eight appellations. Along with its neighbor to the south, the Southern Rhone Valley, it is famous for its big, tannic, intensely concentrated wines. Syrah is the only red grape permitted in AOC wines from this sub-region, though the Syrah can be blended with the white wine grapes Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne, depending on the regulations for each AOC. White wines are made from Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. Of the eight appellations in the north, the most admired wines tend to come from Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu and Hermitage, though there are certainly exceptional wines to be found in St. Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Peray, Crozes-Hermitage and Cornas. Along with Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne, Rhône wines are among France’s best known and most collected wines. Red wines from these appellations are notable for their signature aromas of bacon and green olives, and for their depth. Robert M. Parker, a great champion of Rhone wines, has written that “the northern Rhône produces three of the greatest wines in the world – the white wines of Condrieu and the red wines of Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage.”

This grape is grown in milder climates and produces a medium-to full-bodied wine. It is also known as Shiraz, but should not be confused with Petit Sirah, which was developed by crossing Syrah with Peloursin.