1993 Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages

Maison Louis Jadot is one of Burgundy’s most respected negociants. Founded in 1859 by the Jadot family, the prestige and quality of the estate’s wines were well established in the 19th century. The family continued buying highly desirable vineyards in the 20th century. In 1985 the estate was sold to Rudy Kopf, Jadot’s American importer. Located in Beaune, the estate has 336 acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay. Though all the maison’s wines are known for their high quality, signature wines are the Bonnes Mares, Chambertin-Close de Beze, Chevalier-Montrachet les Demoiselles, Corton-Charlemagne, Le Montrachet and Musigny. Pierre-Henry Gagey is president.

Beaujolais is the Côte d’Or’s big, boisterous neighbor to the south. At 34 miles in length and nine miles across, it is twice the size of Rhode Island. Though it is technically a part of Burgundy, Beaujolais’ wines are quite different from the northern Burgundies. A big reason is that 99% of the grapes grown in Beaujolais are Gamay, a relative of Pinot Noir but with a lighter skin, less tannin, and lower acidity. Gamay is easier to grow and ripens before Pinot Noir, and though it is often dismissed by wine connoisseurs, it can make outstanding wines. Beaujolais is also distinctive in that most winemakers there use a process called carbonic maceration, which means that grapes are not crushed but dumped into large vats where the weight of the grapes eventually crushes those at the bottom. Unbroken grapes begin fermenting inside their skins, helping give the wines of this region their intensely perfumed, fruity character. There are numerous appellations within Beaujolais, but the most prestigious are the ten Cru Beaujolais. Each of those ten Crus has its own village or vineyard appellation. Beaujolais’ reputation suffered in the late 20th century when French wine marketers created a demand for Beaujolais Nouveau, two-month old wine made from the recent harvest and released the third weekend in November. The wines are thin and meant to be drunk immediately, and though made from Gamay, they have little else in common with the more serious Beaujolais wines.