1996 Gaston-Chiquet Brut

Gaston Chiquet is a domaine in Dizy, in France’s Champagne appellation. The 58-acre estate is in the heart of the region just north of Epernay, and it was founded in the 18th century by Nicolas Chiquet. Today it is run by bothers Antoine and Nicolas Chiquet who grow the traditional varietals of Champagne, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. The domaine makes half a dozen well-reviewed Champagnes, but of particular note are the “Special Club” vintage Bruts, which are Grand Cru Champagnes made in accordance with the strict regulations of the Tresors de Champagne Club. The Tresors de Champagne is a group of 26 Champagne makers who agree to each produce a Special Club Champagne only in extraordinary vintages. The 2004 Chiquet Special Club Grand Cru is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. .

Champagne is a small, beautiful wine growing region northeast of Paris whose famous name is misused a million times a day. As wine enthusiasts and all French people are well aware, only sparkling wines produced in Champagne from grapes grown in Champagne can be called Champagne. Sparkling wines produced anywhere else, including in other parts of France, must be called something besides Champagne. Champagne producers are justifiably protective of their wines and the prestige associated with true Champagne. Though the region was growing grapes and making wines in ancient times, it began specializing in sparkling wine in the 17th century, when a Benedictine monk named Dom Pierre Pérignon formulated a set guidelines to improve the quality of the local sparkling wines. Despite legends to the contrary, Dom Pérignon did not “invent” sparkling wine, but his rules about aggressive pruning, small yields and multiple pressings of the grapes were widely adopted, and by the 18th and 19th centuries Champagne had become the wine of choice in fashionable courts and palaces throughout Europe. Today there are 75,000 acres of vineyards in Champagne growing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Champagne’s official appellation system classifies villages as Grand Cru or Premier Cru, though there are also many excellent Champagnes that simply carry the regional appellation. Along with well-known international Champagne houses there are numerous so-called “producer Champagnes,” meaning wines made by families who, usually for several or more generations, have worked their own vineyards and produced Champagne only from their own grapes.