2004 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga

Marchesi di Gresy is a 110-acre estate in the Langhe and Monferrato regions of Piedmont. The estate is made up of three properties that grow Nebbiolo, as well as Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Dolcetto d’Alba. It is the estate’s Barbaresco, however, which earns the most compliments from such reviewers as Robert M. Parker Jr., who called Marchesi di Gresy “one of my favorite producers of high-class Barbarescos. Marchesi di Gresy’s style is one of exceptional refinement and gracious elegance…” Owned by Alberto di Gresy, the historic estate has been known for its “consistently top-notch” wines since the early 1970s, according to Gambero Rosso, Italy’s leading wine journal. The estate produces 200,000 bottles of various wines a year.

Barbaresco is one of the two most acclaimed DOCGs in Piedmont, the other being Barolo. Located just a few miles north of Barolo, Barbaresco is a small town of fewer than 700 people and 1,680 vineyard acres, making it less than half the size of the Barolo DOCG. The other communes in this DOCG of rolling hills are Neive and Treiso. As in Barolo, the DOCG requires that Barbaresco DOCG wines be 100% Nebbiolo, a grape thought of as the Pinot Noir of Italy. Records show that Nebbiolo was grown in the Piedmont as early as the 14th century, and despite being somewhat finicky – it is late to ripen and easily damaged by adverse weather --- Nebbiolo makes highly aromatic and powerful red wines. Until the mid-19th century Nebbiolos of Piedmont were vinified as sweet wines, though that ended in the late 19th century when a French oenologist was invited to Piedmont to show producers how to make dry reds. By the late 20th century respected producers were making outstanding Nebbiolos, as well as Nebbiolo blends that do not carry the DOCG label. Barbaresco was made a DOC in 1966 and upgraded to a DCOG in 1980. DOCG Barbaresco must be aged a minimum of two years, with a minimum of one year in wood. Barbarescos are regarded as more subtle and refined than Barolos, and more approachable when young.

This red grape is most often associated with Piedmont, where it becomes DOCG Barolo and Barbaresco, among others. Its name comes from Italian for “fog,” which descends over the region at harvest. The fruit also gains a foggy white veil when mature.