1998 Buena Vista Grand Reserve Pinot Noir

Buena Vista Winery calls itself California’s oldest premium winery, and it’s hard to argue the point given it was founded about the same time California became a state. Agoston Haraszthy de Mokeska was a Hungarian immigrant from a wealthy, land-owing family, and in 1840 he landed in California with the dream of creating his own agricultural empire, including a winery. A man of great energy and vision, he was elected to California state legislature and explored the state – at one point he was the sheriff of San Diego – before buying the 800-acre Sonoma ranch known as Buena Vista. He built a stone winery, planted vineyards and organized the first society for the study and improvement of California viticulture. For the next 100 years the estate had periods of success but also periods when it fell into disrepair and did not make wines. By the mid-20th century the estate had been purchased by a large German corporation, which made some improvements and some excellent Cabernet Sauvignons. In 2011 Buena Vista was purchased by Boisset Family Estates, which owns a collection of historic estates in Burgundy and California. Buena Vista still owns nearly 900 acres planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Syrah Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel.

Carneros AVA, also known as Los Carneros, is at the southern end of the Napa and Sonoma Valleys at the top of the San Francisco Bay. The 8,000 vineyard acres are mostly planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, both of which thrive in the district’s cool, marine climate. Carneros became an AVA in 1983 and it has attracted foreign wine companies along with local producers. It has been especially appealing to European producers of sparkling wines including the giant Spanish cava producers Codorniu and Frexinet, and the French Champagne house Taittinger. Codorniu in Carneros is called Artesa, and Frexinet’s Carneros brand is Gloria Ferrer. Taittinger calls its Carneros winery Domaine Carneros. The European producers also make still wines in Carneros.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.