1997 Bernard Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques

Bernard Dugat-Py is a 30-acre domaine in the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation of Burgundy. The Dugats have been winemakers in the region since the 17th century, and Bernard and his son Loic are the 12th and 13th generations to run the domain. Since 2004 the domain has been completely biodynamic. The domain produces Grand Crus, which are Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, and Mazoyeres-Chambertin. There are also Premier Crus and Village wines. Dugat-Py’s wines are aged in a magnificent vaulted cellar that was built as part of an abbey in the 9th century. Recently the domaine has also made white wines, including a Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne. Clive Coates, the long-time wine critic and Burgundy authority, has noted that Bernard Dugat-Py “is a high-class establishment presided over by a charming couple.” The domain’s wines, he adds, “are very stylish and well-balanced.”

Côte de Nuits is the northern part of the Côte d’Or and it includes the most famous vineyards and wine communes in the world. There are more Grand Cru appellations in the Côte de Nuits than anywhere else in Burgundy. Of the fourteen communes, or villages in the Côte de Nuits, six produce Grand Cru wines. They are Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St.-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Flagey-Échezeaux and Vosne-Romanee. Some of the vineyards within the Côte de Nuits are tiny, which adds to their prestige. The fabled Grand Cru vineyard La Romanee is barely two square acres. Altogether there are twenty-four Grand Cru vineyards. The region takes its name from the village of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Côtes de Nuits produces mostly reds from Pinot Noir, and the wines have been in demand for centuries. During the 18th century King Louis XIV’s physician recommended that for his health the king only drink wines from Nuits-Saint-Georges. Like most of Burgundy, the soils of the Côte de Nuit can vary greatly from one vineyard to another, though most are a base soil of limestone mixed with clay, gravel and sand.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.