1997 Domaine Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Cuvée Silex, 1.5ltr

Domaine Didier Dagueneau is a 30-acre estate in the Loire Valley that produces white wines with a cult following. It was founded by the late, legendary Didier Dagueneau, a fourth generation winemaker who was also a champion motorcycle racer and dog-sled racer before settling down in his native village of Saint Andelain just outside of Pouilly-sur-Loire in 1982. For nearly 30 years Dagueneau, a self-confident iconoclast, blended modern winemaking techniques with traditional vineyard management to make Sauvignon Blancs that became some of the world’s most coveted and admired white wines. Dagueneau died in an ultra light plane crash in 2008, but his son and daughter, Benjamin and Charlotte, have taken over the estate. The Wine Advocate and other reviews continue to give the wines made under the Dagueneau fils high ratings and compliments. The estate makes Fume de Pouilly, Sancerre and other whites. It also now makes wines from vineyards in Jurancon.

The Loire Valley in central France is home to numerous important appellations and sub-appellations. Its 185,000 vineyard acres include 87 appellations in Anjou, Samur, Touraine and Chinon, among other areas. The Loire River, which stretches from Nantes on the Atlantic Coast to Orleans, about 80 miles south of Paris, has been a boon to winemaking in the region ever since the Romans planted vineyards some 2,000 years ago. The river moderates the climate in the Loire Valley, which in the 11th and 12th centuries produced wine that was more prized than the wines of Bordeaux or Burgundy. Today the Loire Valley is best known for its white wines, though it actually produces as much red and white wine. The prestigious white wines of the region are Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Muscadet and Vouvray. The white grapes most frequently grown are Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Melon de Bourgogne. The best red wines are typically Cabernet Franc or Gamay. Though Loire Valley wines are widely admired in France, outside of the country they suffer from a lack of recognition. In writing about Loire wines, Hugh Johnson has noted that the “classic word for them is charming; the classic mystery that they are not more appreciated outside of France.”

This crisp, dry white wine hails from France but is grown in wine regions around the world. In California, it is sometimes called Fume Blanc; while in Sauternes, it is a component of their famous dessert wines.