2013 Maison Roche de Bellene Clos St. Denis

Maison Roche de Bellene is a negociant founded in 2008 by Nicolas Potel, a rising star in Burgundy and the son of the late, legendary Gerard Potel of the highly respected Domaine de la Pousse d’Or in Volnay. After his father’s death in 1997 Nicolas became a negociant and started Maison Nicolas Potel. His wines earned praise from such writers as Clive Coates, but a falling out with his business partners led to Potel’s departure from the firm that still bears his name. Ever the optimist, he bought vineyards and founded yet another negociant business and a domaine. He named his new ventures after Bellene, an ancient Gallic god of the sun. Wine Advocate wrote in 2014 that “Nicolas Potel’s wines have a strong following in the UK, the United States and Japan and for good reason. His wide portfolio of both domaine and negociant wines can be absolutely delicious…” Nicolas Potel makes wines biodynamically.

Clos St.-Denis is a 16-acre Grand Cru vineyard in the Morey St.-Denis appellation in Northern Burgundy. In fact the village of Morey St.-Denis gets part of its name from this vineyard. In 1927 the village voted to add St.-Denis to Morey. Like its neighboring Grand Cru vineyards, Clos St.-Denis is rocky, well-drained, and composed largely of limestone and pebbles. Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that three of “the greatest Burgundies I have ever tasted” came from this vineyard. (They were produced by Dujac, Ponsot and Georges Lignier.) The largest landholders are Georges Lignier, with 3.7 acres; Dujac, with 3.68 acres; and Drouhin, with 1.8 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.