2009 Bernard Boisson-Vadot Meursault Les Grands Charrons

Domaine Bernard Boisson-Vadot is small, family-owned and operated Meursault estate with a loyal following in France. The father and son team of Bernard and Pierre Boisson run the 12.5-acre estate, producing no more than 4,000 cases of premier cru and villages wines annually. Pierre Boisson also makes a few wines under his own label from vineyards inherited from his maternal grandmother. Though the estate’s wines have always been considered excellent, in the last decade Pierre has brought an increased attention to traditional, old-school winemaking. Boisson-Vadot’s parcels include many old vines, and the Boissons believe in limited use of new oak, indigenous yeasts only, and no filtration. Vinous has awarded the domain’s wines scores in the low- to mid-90s, and noted that the domain has “created considerable buzz.” Burgundy reviewer Clive Coates has called the domaine “a good source.”

Meursault is one of the trio of famous Chardonnay producing appellations in the Côte d’Or. Although both red and white wines are allowed to be produced in the Meursault appellation, 98% of Meursault is Chardonnay. With a total of 2,500 acres of vineyards, there are no Grands Crus but 325 acres of Premiers Crus, which are divided into 13 main vineyards. As wine writers have often noted, Meursault’s fame is based on its Premiers Crus, including the prestigious Les Perrières, Les Genevrières and Les Charmes. Because the water table is low in Meursault, many producers have cellars here, including Comte Lafon and Jean-Francois Coche-Dury. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote “the Premiers Crus, as well as the finest Villages Meursaults from the top vineyards, are among the easiest drinking white burgundies in the world. Why? High-quality Meursault is opulent, almost unctuous, with a fatness and a juicy, succulent, buttery, hazelnut and apple, peach-like fruitiness that often roars from the glass.”

This white variety originated in Burgundy, but is now grown around the world. Its flexibility to thrive in many regions translates to wide flavor profile in the market. Chardonnay is commonly used in making Champagne and sparkling wines.