1990 Michel Lafarge Volnay Clos des Chenes

Michel Lafarge dates its history in the commune of Volnay, in Burgundy’s Cote de Beaune, to the 19th century. The domaine owns or leases 28.75 acres of premier cru and villages vineyards including premier cru parcels in Les Caillerets, Clos des Chenes, Clos du Chateau des Ducs (a monopole), and Les Mitans. The estate frequently produces 16 cuvees from their vineyards, and all are much admired. Clive Coates has written the Michel Lafarge and his son Frederic “produce some of the most delicious wines in the village, all the way from a splendid Bourgogne rouge to the yardstick Clos des Chenes.”

Volnay is a small appellation with just 904 vineyard acres and a town of fewer than 500 residents. Nevertheless, to Burgundy enthusiasts, it's a jewel. Clive Coates calls Volnay “one of the most delightful wines and one of the most rewarding communes in the Côte d’Or.” Robert M. Parker Jr. described Volnay as “the queen of the Côte de Beaune.” Volnay has always been appealing. In the 13th and 14th centuries the powerful Dukes of Burgundy acquired land there and built chateaux. The medieval town sits on the hillside above the vineyards and the appellation is restricted to red wines made of Pinot Noir. Though there are no Grands Crus, there are 35 Premiers Crus. Some reviewers say the lighter soil of Volnay, compared with Pommard to the north, makes Volnay wines more delicate and elegant than wines from neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Volnay has a “high-quality level of winemaking…The top Volnays possess an immense, seductive fruitiness and lushness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.